APPENDIX -- D
 
WOMEN'S ARMY CORPS UNIFORMS 1942-1978
 
Olive Drab and Khaki Uniforms, 1942-1951
 
When the Women's Army Auxiliary Corps (WAAC) was established in May 1942, the Army accepted Director Oveta Culp Hobby's recommendation that women's uniforms be of the same materials and colors as the men's. This kept uniform costs low and helped women blend into the Army scene at posts and camps throughout the United States and overseas.1 While the Corps remained an auxiliary, the Army issued uniforms to WAAC officers and enlisted women free of charge. However, after 1 September 1943 when the Women's Army Corps (WAC) became an integral part of the Army of the United States, WAC officers and warrant officers had to buy their own military clothing, initially using a one-time uniform allowance given them by the Army. Enlisted women continued to receive their uniforms free as did enlisted men.2 Neither male soldiers nor WACs (after 1 September 1943) could wear civilian clothes off duty until September 1946.3 By the end of 1944, the Army Nurse Corps had adopted the WAC service uniform, raincoat, overcoat, and accessories. The ANC cap, handbag, insignia, off-duty dress, and hospital duty uniform remained distinctive items of wear for the nurses.4 
 
In this discussion of uniforms, warrant officers are included in the term officers unless specifically excluded. But, whether WAAC or WAC, commissioned, warrant officers, or enlisted, the women wore the style uniform approved for their era. Officers' uniforms in general had several distinctive features that set them apart from the uniforms worn by enlisted personnel. For example, officers' uniforms had shoulder loops or tabs on outer-wear items such as coats, jackets, and shirts so that rank insignia could be attached. Officers' uniforms also had a quarter-inch wide strip of black braid sewn four inches above the cuff of their winter uniform jackets and overcoats; khaki braid was sewn on their summer uniforms.5 
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And because officers purchased their own uniforms, they usually had a choice of fabrics in which they could have their uniforms made. On garrison caps, officers (male and female) wore an edging braid of gold and black; enlisted personnel wore a braid with their branch colors, which, for the WAC, were moss green and old gold.6
 
The World War II WAC winter service uniform consisted of a wool, olive-drab skirt, jacket, and cap with visor, commonly called "the Hobby Hat" (Plate 1). A belt originally issued with the uniform (summer and winter) was eliminated in late 1942 because it wore out the material beneath it. The summer service uniform was identical in style to the winter uniform but was made of 8.2-ounce cotton material in the khaki shade (Plate 2).7
 
Few changes occurred in the WAC service uniform until 1944. Then, in August, the women received a garrison cap, commonly called an "overseas cap," as a replacement for the Hobby hat that was difficult to clean, block, and store. The olive-drab plastic buttons imprinted with the distinctive WAAC eagle-sometimes called the "WAAC buzzard" because of its lopsided appearance-were replaced by gold-colored metal buttons with the United States coat of arms imprinted on them. The hat insignia also changed from the WAAC buzzard to the U.S. coat of arms. And, because the heavy cotton material of the summer uniform wrinkled easily, buckled, and rode up, a tropical worsted fabric was substituted that was dry cleanable, wrinkle resistant, and light in weight for summer wear (Plate 3).8 For off-duty wear, WACs received a uniform dress-one for winter that was a horizon tan (grayish-pink) color in a wool crepe fabric (Plate 4), and one for summer that was a pale cream beige in a rayon-shantung fabric (Plate 5).9 Issue of the off-duty dresses was discontinued in June 1949, but their wear was authorized until June 1954 when all World War II women's uniform items were declared obsolete.10 Also in 1944, WACs stationed in Europe received a waist length, olive-drab wool jacket, called a "battle jacket," that could be worn with matching skirt or slacks that were already in the supply system (Plate 6).11 In April 1945, the battle jacket was authorized for optional purchase and wear by officers and enlisted women in the continental United States (CONUS).12
 
WAC officers usually purchased their summer service uniform in the tropical worsted material. For winter, they usually chose the popular "pinks and greens" combination that included a service jacket in a dark olive-drab (forest green) shade in a wool barathea or elastique fabric and
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a skirt in a light olive-drab shade (pinkish gray) in a wool twill fabric (Plate 7).13
 
The only dress uniform for formal wear that was authorized WAC officers during World War II and the postwar period was the white uniform. It was made in the same style as the service uniform and was worn with white accessories (cap, purse, shoes, gloves) and a black four-in-hand tie (Plate 8).14 The white uniform could be worn off duty or on duty for formal or ceremonial occasions during the summer months or year around in tropical climates. It was an optional purchase uniform this meant that the individual authorized to wear a certain uniform could chose whether to buy it. The white uniform was not authorized for wear by enlisted women until 1951 (optional purchase).15
 
Accessories for the WAC service uniform for officers and enlisted women included a long-sleeved cotton khaki shirt, cotton khaki tie, russet oxfords with a one-and-a-half-inch heel, and a russet, mail-pouch style, leather handbag with a shoulder strap. For outer wear the WACs had a wool, olive-drab overcoat (Plate 9), an olive-drab raincoat with attached hood, and an olive green utility (all-weather) coat with button-on parka (Plate 10). Their wardrobe also included ankle-high field shoes, called "Little Abners" by the women; tennis shoes; galoshes; seasonal brown leather and tan cotton gloves; an olive-drab, light wool scarf; a tan cardigan sweater; summer and winter khaki-colored nylon-tricot underwear (bra, panties, girdle, slip); cotton and flannel pajamas; cotton and rayon stockings in a suntan shade; and cotton lisle anklets in the khaki shade.16
 
On duty, WAC officers usually wore the prescribed service uniform. Enlisted women whose duties were administrative or light repair and maintenance wore the season's service uniform (skirt, shirt, tie, garrison cap) with or without the sweater or service jacket. Those enlisted women assigned to medical or dental duties initially wore a blue cotton crepe dress, formerly worn by Army nurses. In 1945, however, it was replaced by a short-sleeved, rose-beige cotton dress (Plate 11).17 The work uniform for enlisted women assigned as mechanics or as chauffeurs, bus, or truck drivers was a one-piece coverall made of cotton jean cloth in the khaki shade (Plate 12).18 Early in 1943, the coverall was replaced by dark herringbone twill (HBT) trousers and shirt for year-round wear (Plate 13).19 HBTs were also worn for field training and as an outdoor work
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uniform. In 1944 cotton khaki slacks, shirts, and caps became the standard issue for women assigned for duty in the Southwest Pacific Area and other warm weather climates (Plate 14).20 The special duty uniform for women assigned to outdoor work or duty in cold weather climates included olive-drab wool serge slacks with wool shirts, a field jacket with a wool liner, wool gloves with leather outer gloves, and an olive-drab garrison cap. In hazardous areas, on field exercises, or during alerts, a helmet liner and helmet were issued to the women (Plate 15).21 
 
For physical training, sports, and fatigue duties (kitchen police, etc.), enlisted women received a green and white seersucker (later brown and white) dress with matching bloomers or shorts called an exercise suit (Plate 16). With it, the women wore tennis shoes or field shoes with cotton or wool anklets, depending upon the season or occasion, along with a fatigue hat that had a wide brim and a crown that came to a peak.22
 
During the postwar era (1945-1950), women's uniforms changed little. In March 1946, women could buy and wear brown leather pumps of plain design (i.e., closed toe and heel, no decorative features) on duty.23 The wearing of pumps off duty had been authorized in March 1944 (optional purchase) to wear with the off-duty dresses.24 In 1946, nylon hose were issued for the first time to Army women.25 It was the fashion of the day that women's hose, except cotton, had a seam down the back of the leg, and military women had to be diligent in ensuring that this seam was always straight. The last uniform change in the postwar era was the substitution of a dark olive-drab tie in 1949 that replaced the cotton khaki necktie. The change applied to both men's and women's uniforms. The dark tie provided a good contrast against the khaki shirt and improved the overall appearance of the Army uniform.26
 
Plate 1. Enlisted woman in the winter service uniform (1942-1951), a dark olive-drab wool material with matching service cap (the "Hobby Hat"). Officers wore the same uniform
Plate 1. Enlisted woman in the winter service uniform (1942-1951), a dark olive-drab wool material with matching service cap (the "Hobby Hat"). Officers wore the same uniform
Plate 2 WAC officer in the summer service uniform (1942-1951), a heavy cotton khaki cloth with matching service cap. Enlisted women wore the same uniform.
Plate 2 WAC officer in the summer service uniform (1942-1951), a heavy cotton khaki cloth with matching service cap. Enlisted women wore the same uniform.
Plate 3. Enlisted woman in a summer uniform and a cap made of a lighter weight material (1944-1951)-a tan tropical worsted cloth. Officers also wore the uniform.
Plate 3. Enlisted woman in a summer uniform and a cap made of a lighter weight material (1944-1951)-a tan tropical worsted cloth. Officers also wore the uniform.
Plate 4. WAC officer in the winter off-duty dress (1944-1951), a grayish-pink wool fabric. Enlisted women also wore this dress.
Plate 4. WAC officer in the winter off-duty dress (1944-1951), a grayish-pink wool fabric. Enlisted women also wore this dress.
Plate 5. Enlisted women in the summer off-duty dress (1944-1951), a creamy pearl-white rayon shantung material. Officers also wore this dress.
Plate 5. Enlisted women in the summer off-duty dress (1944-1951), a creamy pearl-white rayon shantung material. Officers also wore this dress.
Plate 6. Enlisted woman in the winter service uniform with the field jacket called the "battle jacket" or "Ike jacket" (1945-1951), an olive-drab wool material. Officers also wore this uniform.
Plate 6. Enlisted woman in the winter service uniform with the field jacket called the "battle jacket" or "Ike jacket" (1945-1951), an olive-drab wool material. Officers also wore this uniform.
Plate 7. Officer in the semi-dress uniform called the "pinks and greens" uniform (1942-1954), a dark olive-drab elastique wool material for the jacket and a light drab wool skirt. Enlisted women did not wear this uniform.

Plate 7. Officer in the semi-dress uniform called the "pinks and greens" uniform (1942-1954), a dark olive-drab elastique wool material for the jacket and a light drab wool skirt. Enlisted women did not wear this uniform.

Plate 8. Officer in the white dress uniform (1942-1951), a tropical worsted material. Enlisted women were authorized to wear the white dress uniform in 1951.
Plate 8. Officer in the white dress uniform (1942-1951), a tropical worsted material. Enlisted women were authorized to wear the white dress uniform in 1951.
 
 
Plate 9. WAC officer's overcoat (1942-1951), an olive-drab wool doeskin cloth. Enlisted women wore the same style coat in a wool serge cloth without the shoulder tabs.
Plate 9. WAC officer's overcoat (1942-1951), an olive-drab wool doeskin cloth. Enlisted women wore the same style coat in a wool serge cloth without the shoulder tabs.
Plate 10. Enlisted woman in the all-weather utility coat (1942-1951), an olive-drab tackle twill material with a liner and a button-on hood. The officer's utility coat had shoulder tabs for insignia of rank.
Plate 10. Enlisted woman in the all-weather utility coat (1942-1951), an olive-drab tackle twill material with a liner and a button-on hood. The officer's utility coat had shoulder tabs for insignia of rank.
 
 
Plate 11. Enlisted woman in the hospital duty dress (1945-1962), a rose-beige (later tan) lawn cotton material, worn with matching garrison cap. This uniform was not worn by officers.
Plate 11. Enlisted woman in the hospital duty dress (1945-1962), a rose-beige (later tan) lawn cotton material, worn with matching garrison cap. This uniform was not worn by officers.
Plate 12. Enlisted woman in the one-piece work suit or coverall (1942-1943), a khaki cotton material. This uniform was worn by officers only during unusual circumstances.
Plate 12. Enlisted woman in the one-piece work suit or coverall (1942-1943), a khaki cotton material. This uniform was worn by officers only during unusual circumstances.
Plate 13. Enlisted woman in the two-piece work uniform (1943-1969), a dark herringbone twill (HBT) material. Worn primarily by enlisted women, it was worn by officers when required.
Plate 13. Enlisted woman in the two-piece work uniform (1943-1969), a dark herringbone twill (HBT) material. Worn primarily by enlisted women, it was worn by officers when required.
Plate 14. Enlisted woman in the hot weather field uniform (1943-1954), a khaki cotton poplin material. This uniform was also worn by officers under some circumstances.
Plate 14. Enlisted woman in the hot weather field uniform (1943-1954), a khaki cotton poplin material. This uniform was also worn by officers under some circumstances.
Plate 15. WAC officer in the winter field uniform (1944-1954), consisting of olive-drab slacks, wool shirt (worn open or closed) and field jacket worn with a wool serge garrison cap. Helmet liners and helmets were worn on field exercises, during alerts, or while working in hazardous areas. Enlisted women also worn this uniform.
Plate 15. WAC officer in the winter field uniform (1944-1954), consisting of olive-drab slacks, wool shirt (worn open or closed) and field jacket worn with a wool serge garrison cap. Helmet liners and helmets were worn on field exercises, during alerts, or while working in hazardous areas. Enlisted women also worn this uniform.
Plate 16. Enlisted woman in the year-round, seersucker exercise suit for training classes, for sports, and for fatigue duties (KP, etc). Officers also wore this uniform.
Plate 16. Enlisted woman in the year-round, seersucker exercise suit for training classes, for sports, and for fatigue duties (KP, etc). Officers also wore this uniform.
The Taupe Uniform, 1951-1959
 
After Congress authorized women in the Regular Army and the Army Reserve in 1948, the secretary of the Army approved the development of a wholly new uniform for women. The director of the WAC, the chief of the Army Nurse Corps, and the chief of the Women's Medical Specialist Corps advised representatives of the women's fashion industry on fabric and style requirements. The experts then proceeded to design fashionable new uniforms for women. Entries were submitted, and in 1950 the directors and chiefs of the women's branches and the secretary of the Army approved an ensemble of uniforms designed by Hattie Carnegie, one of the foremost women's fashion designers.27
 
Breaking away completely from the concept of having women's uniforms resemble men's as much as possible, the new service uniform featured a brown taupe color, distinctly feminine lines, and a light-weight wool fabric for year-round wear. The jacket had a round collar, closed lapels, five buttons from neck to waist, a nipped-in waistline, slightly padded hipline and shoulders, and two sets of decorative pockets (Plate 17). The service hat had a molded crown and an up-curving half-brim rising on the left side. To balance the roll of the brim, the hat insignia was worn off center on the right hand side. The special duty uniform, worn for work that required slacks, included a wool taupe battle jacket and wool taupe slacks, taupe garrison cap, field shoes or cafe brown oxfords. The service uniform ensemble also included two shirts-a rayon broadcloth and a cotton chambray-both long sleeved. The shirts, sometimes called shirtwaists or waists, were worn completely buttoned to the top; later a necktab was added (Plate 18). When a woman left her immediate office or work space, she was required to wear the wool taupe jacket.28
 
For summer wear the women received an open-collar, short-sleeved, cotton taupe dress with a matching garrison cap and tan cotton gloves (Plate 19). The dress had pockets in the skirt, antiqued bronze buttons, and shoulder loops. For best appearance, both dress and cap were lightly starched.29
 
Cafe brown accessories-handbag, oxfords, leather gloves-replaced those of russet brown. Taupe shade hose replaced the brown shade nylons issued to enlisted women after World War II. Outer garments included a wool serge taupe overcoat with button-in liner that could be worn in both the raincoat and overcoat (Plate 20), a nylon-rayon taupe
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raincoat with removable hood (Plate 21), and tan rayon crepe scarf with fringed ends. Dull antiqued bronze buttons and hat insignia replaced the shiny brass ones. In the summer the women wore tan cotton gloves; in winter, cafe brown leather gloves. A taupe cardigan sweater replaced the khaki-colored sweater.30 
 
In 1949 a monetary clothing allowance system had been introduced to provide enlisted personnel with a maintenance allowance to replace worn-out clothing. In 1951 women began to receive an additional $30 to purchase lingerie and $12 to purchase a pair of pumps or dress oxfords.31 After this, women no longer received lingerie as items of issue. However, they continued to receive six pairs of nylon stockings until 1964, when they received $3 to purchase them instead .32
 
The uniform for enlisted women who worked in hospitals and clinics changed in 1951 from the rose-beige cotton dress to a light tan, lawn cotton dress of the same style. In 1958, a light taupe, three-piece exercise suit (cotton chambray shirt, denim skirt, and shorts) replaced the two-piece brown and white seersucker dress and shorts worn for fatigue duties, physical training classes, and sports (Plate 22).33
 
The women's white uniform was restyled in the same design as the taupe service uniform and was worn with white accessories but without a tie or collar tab (Plate 23). In September 1952, an evening dress uniform was authorized for wear by commissioned and warrant officers. This optional purchase ensemble could be worn to formal social functions. It consisted of a blue wool princess-style jacket, floor-length wool skirt, white silk blouse, blue tiara with gold thread embroidery, blue suede pumps, white kid gloves, and a finger-tip length blue wool cape with a gold rayon lining (Plate 24).34 Few officers other than the director of the WAC and the chiefs of the Army's other women's branches purchased this uniform because it was so expensive. In June 1957, a more affordable dress uniform, the Army blue uniform, was authorized as an optional purchase uniform for officers and enlisted women. Called "dress blues," this blue wool uniform included a white shirt with black collar tab. It could be worn in place of the service uniform at official and unofficial events when prescribed. It could be worn with or without a dark blue, forger-tip length cape with a gold satin lining (Plate 25).35 The women's dress blue uniform included a shoulder strap on which officers wore their
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insignia of rank, but in October 1959 the Army Uniform Board authorized women officers to wear shoulder boards with their insignia of rank as male officers did.36
 
The taupe uniform proved unpopular from the moment it was issued in 1951. Officers disliked giving up their beloved "pinks and greens" for the dull taupe shade. Enlisted women complained about working in a fitted jacket and shirtwaist both of which had to be worn buttoned to the neck most of the time. The light-weight wool cloth shrank, lost its shape, and, after several dry cleanings, wrinkled easily. It was too warm to wear in the summer. The one-sided brim made the hat difficult to wear correctly. And, despite the claims of the fabric manufacturer, the taupe raincoat was not water repellent. Adding to those complaints, many women missed the highly polished brass insignia and buttons, and many thought that the taupe shade was unbecoming to their complexions.37 In 1953, to alleviate some of the problems, women were authorized to purchase the taupe uniform in cooler and more wrinkle-resistant fabrics (tropical worsted, etc.).38 In another concession, during the summer of 1954 only, officers and enlisted women could wear the white uniform (optional purchase) on duty with the cafe brown shoes, bag, gloves, and white hat.39 The most welcome relief from the taupe uniform came in 1954 in the form of a newly designed summer uniform as an optional purchase item for officers and enlisted women. The new uniform was called the Army beige uniform and could be worn on and off duty. Worn with a tan shirt and cafe brown collar tab, it consisted of a light taupe jacket with an open-lapel collar, matching skirt, and a garrison cap as well as a service hat (Plate 26).40 It was offered in a choice of tropical worsted, gabardine, or a rayon twill weave; most women preferred the tropical worsted material. Accessories included the cafe brown handbag, oxfords or pumps, tan cotton gloves, and tan rayon scarf. This uniform became very popular and was dubbed the "Silver Taupe" by the women. In 1962, the Army green hat and black accessories began to be worn with it, and, in that same year, it became a mandatory item for purchase and wear by WAC officers.41 A tan vinyl raincoat was authorized for purchase by all Army women in May 1960, but it could not be worn in formations.42
 
Despite the modifications, complaints about the taupe uniform increased yearly. In 1954 when the Army announced that men would have a new Army green uniform to be worn with black accessories, the chiefs
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of the women's services had grasped the opportunity to ask for a matching women's green uniform. In March 1956, the Army Uniform Board had approved the concept, and within a year the design for a women's green winter service uniform and a two-piece green cord uniform for summer had been approved.43
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Plate 17. Officer in the year-round, wool taupe service uniform (1951-1960), worn with tan shirtwaist, cafe brown oxfords or pumps, and matching service hat. This uniform was also worn by enlisted women.
Plate 17. Officer in the year-round, wool taupe service uniform (1951-1960), worn with tan shirtwaist, cafe brown oxfords or pumps, and matching service hat. This uniform was also worn by enlisted women.
Plate 18. Enlisted woman in the cotton shirtwaist (1951-1960), worn with the wool taupe service uniform and the work uniform (HBTs).
Plate 18. Enlisted woman in the cotton shirtwaist (1951-1960), worn with the wool taupe service uniform and the work uniform (HBTs).
Plate 19. Enlisted woman in the summer cotton dress (1951-1959), worn with matching garrison cap, cafe brown pumps or oxfords, tan cotton gloves, and cafe brown handbag with strap worn over the left shoulder. Officers also wore this dress.
Plate 19. Enlisted woman in the summer cotton dress (1951-1959), worn with matching garrison cap, cafe brown pumps or oxfords, tan cotton gloves, and cafe brown handbag with strap worn over the left shoulder. Officers also wore this dress.
Plate 20. Officer in the double-breasted wool serge taupe overcoat (1951-1968), with button-in lining that could also be worn in the taupe raincoat. The coat was worn with the wool taupe hat or garrison cap, cafe brown leather purse, cafe brown pumps or oxfords, and gloves. Enlisted woman also wore this overcoat.
Plate 20. Officer in the double-breasted wool serge taupe overcoat (1951-1968), with button-in lining that could also be worn in the taupe raincoat. The coat was worn with the wool taupe hat or garrison cap, cafe brown leather purse, cafe brown pumps or oxfords, and gloves. Enlisted woman also wore this overcoat.
Plate 21. Officer in the taupe raincoat (1951-1966), a nylon-rayon cloth. This raincoat, also worn by enlisted women, had a removable hood and was worn with the button-in liner from the overcoat. If a scarf were worn, the coat could be unbuttoned to the second button. It was worn with cafe brown leather purse and gloves or, in summer, the tan cotton gloves.
Plate 21. Officer in the taupe raincoat (1951-1966), a nylon-rayon cloth. This raincoat, also worn by enlisted women, had a removable hood and was worn with the button-in liner from the overcoat. If a scarf were worn, the coat could be unbuttoned to the second button. It was worn with cafe brown leather purse and gloves or, in summer, the tan cotton gloves.
Plate 22. Enlisted woman in the taupe three-piece exercise suit (1951-1971), consisting of a cotton chambray shirt and denim cloth skirt and shorts. Later blue, it was worn with white tennis shoes and cotton taupe anklets for fatigue duties (KP, etc.), physical training, and sports activities. Officers also wore this uniform.
Plate 22. Enlisted woman in the taupe three-piece exercise suit (1951-1971), consisting of a cotton chambray shirt and denim cloth skirt and shorts. Later blue, it was worn with white tennis shoes and cotton taupe anklets for fatigue duties (KP, etc.), physical training, and sports activities. Officers also wore this uniform.
Plate 23. Officer in the Hattie Carnegie style white dress uniform (1951-1960). It was worn with white long-sleeved rayon, nylon, or silk shirtwaist; no tie or necktab since the jacket was worn completely buttoned at all times; white leather or white fabric pumps or oxfords; and white cotton or nylon fabric gloves. Beginning in 1951, enlisted women could wear this uniform off duty.
Plate 23. Officer in the Hattie Carnegie style white dress uniform (1951-1960). It was worn with white long-sleeved rayon, nylon, or silk shirtwaist; no tie or necktab since the jacket was worn completely buttoned at all times; white leather or white fabric pumps or oxfords; and white cotton or nylon fabric gloves. Beginning in 1951, enlisted women could wear this uniform off duty.
Plate 24. Officer's evening dress uniform (1952-1969), consisting of a blue wool jacket with gold bullion embroidered insignia of grade and branch on the sleeves, floor-length wool skirt, cape with gold rayon lining and gold bullion shoulder straps with embroidered insignia of grade, and a headband with laurel leaf, gold bullion embroidery. It was worn with a white silk shirtwaist, white kid gloves, and blue suede pumps. This uniform was not worn by enlisted women.
Plate 24. Officer's evening dress uniform (1952-1969), consisting of a blue wool jacket with gold bullion embroidered insignia of grade and branch on the sleeves, floor-length wool skirt, cape with gold rayon lining and gold bullion shoulder straps with embroidered insignia of grade, and a headband with laurel leaf, gold bullion embroidery. It was worn with a white silk shirtwaist, white kid gloves, and blue suede pumps. This uniform was not worn by enlisted women.
Plate 25. Enlisted woman in the Army blue uniform (1957-present), a wool barathea material, worn with black accessories. This uniform was also worn by officers.
Plate 25. Enlisted woman in the Army blue uniform (1957-present), a wool barathea material, worn with black accessories. This uniform was also worn by officers.
Plate 26. Enlisted woman in the optional purchase Army beige uniform (19541968), made in a tropical worsted or gabardine fabric. This summer uniform was worn with cafe brown accessories until 1962, when black accessories were prescribed. This uniform, sometimes called "the silver taupe," was also worn by officers.
Plate 26. Enlisted woman in the optional purchase Army beige uniform (19541968), made in a tropical worsted or gabardine fabric. This summer uniform was worn with cafe brown accessories until 1962, when black accessories were prescribed. This uniform, sometimes called "the silver taupe," was also worn by officers.
The Army Green Uniform, 1959-1978
 
The first item in the women's green uniform ensemble was the Army green cord suit, issued in March 1959, in time for the summer season. It was a two-piece, green and white striped, cotton polyester suit accented by a dark green cord trim on collars and cuffs and on the garrison cap (Plate 27). The women's winter Army green service uniform, issued beginning 1 July 1960, consisted of a wool serge skirt, jacket, garrison cap and service hat (Plate 28). The uniform was worn with a long-sleeved tan cotton shirt and a black necktab. The buttons and hat insignia were an antiqued gold color metal.44 In 1966, in addition to the wool service uniform, enlisted women received another in a tropical worsted fabric. This addition made the uniform suitable for year-round wear, and the Army beige uniform was then phased out of the women's wardrobe. The phase-out was completed on 1 December 1968.45 
 
The changeover from cafe brown to black accessories (shoes, leather gloves, handbag, necktab) was completed in August 1962. For summer wear, the tan cotton gloves and scarf were replaced in 1962 with gray-beige items. A short-sleeved tan shirt was added in 1966 and, beginning in 1972, women could wear a white shirt and black collar tab with the green service uniform.46 The Navy women's handbag was adopted as a standard item of issue for military women in 1965, but its small size made it unacceptable to Army women and in 1969 the Army women's handbag was reinstated as a substitute item.47 Beginning in 1960, women wore seamless hose with their uniforms when not in military formations such as reveille and retreat.48  In 1962, gold color metal buttons and hat insignia replaced the antiqued gold insignia on both the green service uniform, the green cord, and the beige uniforms. In 1963, as an optional purchase, women could wear anodized aluminum buttons on their uniforms.49 The Army green service hat did not enter the supply system until July 1963. In the interim, and seasonally, women wore the Army green cord or green wool garrison caps. It was still later, 1966 and 1967 respectively, when they received the Army green raincoat with button-on havelock (Plate 29) and the Army green overcoat (Plate 30).50 
 
Though the phase-in period for the women's Army green wardrobe had been lengthy, by 1 July 1970 all taupe uniform items were obsolete and women wore the green uniform exclusively.
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The work uniform for enlisted women who held medical or dental MOSs (military occupational specialties) significantly improved in 1962 when they were issued the white hospital duty dress also worn by nurses and other women officers in the Medical Department of the Army (Plate 31). When approved by their hospital commanders, enlisted women could purchase and wear white oxfords. Some commanders reserved these items for wear only by women officers as a matter of identity.51 In 1975, when pantsuits became a common item of wear by American women, a white pantsuit (optional purchase) was added to the women's hospital duty uniform (Plate 32).52
 
The work uniform for cooks and bakers (food handlers) had few revisions between 1942 and 1975. A yellow food-handler's uniform was tested at WAC Center in 1970, but was never adopted because the white color was overwhelmingly preferred by the enlisted women.53 The basic duty uniform was a white cotton dress with wrap-around skirt that could be reversed as the uniform became soiled, an apron, and a chef's cap (Plate 33). In 1963, a disposable paper cap replaced the chef's cotton cap.54  In 1975, a white pantsuit with hip length tunic and slacks was added to the food handler's uniform.55 
 
Between 1943 and 1969, the year-round women's field duty uniform, usually called fatigues, continued to be the olive-drab herringbone twill (HBT) shirt, trousers, and garrison cap. After the women's hot weather field uniform-cotton khaki slacks and shirt-had been declared obsolete in 1954, HBTs were worn year-round.56 However, after nurses and WACs were assigned to duty in Vietnam in the 1960s, HBTs proved to be too warm for the climate. In 1969, women serving in Vietnam received a new hot weather field uniform consisting of a light-weight, olive green, cotton poplin shirt and slacks and utility (baseball) cap (Plate 34). In 1966, black service boots were issued for wear with the women's field uniform.57 And, in 1969, the cold weather field uniform changed from the taupe wool jacket and slacks to an olive green, wool serge jacket, slacks, skirt, and garrison cap, and a wool flannel or cotton shirt.58
 
The taupe exercise suit was replaced in 1969 with a three-piece blue cotton chambray outfit.59 In 1972, the exercise suit was renamed the training duty uniform and a new two-toned, green uniform was issued. It consisted of cotton poplin shirt, shorts, and skirt worn with the green cord or Army green garrison cap. Also that year, women drill sergeants
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received a distinctive hat that resembled the Australian bush hat (Plate 35).60
 
During the late 1950s and 1960s, the style and number of women's dress uniforms increased so that they had one to correspond to each of the men's. The style of the women's white uniform had changed in 1959 to the open-collar style of the beige uniform (Plate 36)61 And the style of the blue, white, and beige hats changed in 1962 to that of the new Army green hat. In 1959, the shade of the women's Army evening dress uniform had changed from dark blue to the midnight blue of the men's evening dress uniform.62 Then, in 1967, a major innovation occurred when the Army chief of staff approved a black evening dress and a white evening dress uniform for women. Each was worn with a black floorlength skirt and either a black or a white mess jacket. The uniform included a white shirtwaist with black necktab and black cummerbund. The black evening dress uniform (Plate 37) was worn with black accessories-purse, gloves, pumps; white accessories accompanied the white evening dress uniform (Plate 38). At the same time the chief of staff authorized formal mess uniforms for women-the black mess (Plate 39) and the white mess (Plate 40) and the all-white mess uniform (no plate). Mess jackets and skirts could be interchanged with accessories to fit the occasion and proper uniform. The all-white mess uniform consisted of a white jacket, street-length white skirt, white cummerbund, black necktab, and white accessories. A dark blue wool, fingertip-length cape or a black wool, street-length cape could be worn with the black evening dress or black mess uniforms.63 In 1981, enlisted women were authorized to wear the mess uniforms.64 
 
Anticipating a decline in male soldiers following the end of the draft, the Army initiated a major WAC recruiting campaign in 1972 that increased by thousands the number of WACs on duty. The overall expansion campaign for the new all-volunteer Army inspired the director of the WAC and the other chiefs of the women's branches of the Army to recommend the redesign of the summer uniform and changes in other items of the women's wardrobe. In June 1972, the Army chief of staff authorized for optional purchase and wear with the Army green service uniform, a black beret, black raincoat, black patent leather pumps, white shirt, white scarf and gloves, and a small black clutch purse. At the same time, he modified Army tradition by permitting women in uniform to carry black umbrellas when in uniform, but not while they were in military formations (Plate 41).65 In 1974, a black raincoat and overcoat
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combination with removable liner and havelock was adopted to replace the green raincoat and green overcoat.66 The black beret became an item of issue in 1975; it replaced the green hat in 1978 and the green garrison cap in 1980.67 The white shirt, scarf, and gloves became items of issue in 1975, replacing those tan and gray-beige items.68 
 
By far the most drastic change in years in women's items occurred in 1974 with the introduction of a (then optional purchase) redesigned summer uniform-a mint green polyester knit dress with a long-sleeved jacket. It was worn with the black beret or green hat, black oxfords or pumps, black handbag, white gloves and scarf. However, the princess style of the dress was not comfortable for most work situations and it was not adopted. In its place, the Army tested and in 1975 chose a mint green polyester knit skirt and jacket uniform (Plate 42).69  Both long- and short-sleeved jackets were issued to give the women a choice. A shirt was not worn with this uniform. It replaced the green cord uniform as an item of issue in 1975. The green cord was declared obsolete after 1 October 1981.70
 
Another major change in women's uniforms occurred in 1976 with the issue of a green pantsuit.71  Women assigned military police duties were the first to wear the pantsuit as a duty uniform (September 1976). It consisted of polyester wool gabardine slacks and jacket, worn with either a gray-green sleeveless turtleneck tunic or a white shirt with black necktab (Plate 43). A white turtleneck tunic was tested but not adopted. The green pantsuit became an item of issue in November 1977.72
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Plate 27. Enlisted woman in the Army green cord uniform (1959-1980), of green and white striped polyester and cotton cord material. Worn initially with a matching green cord cap, it was later worn with the Army green hat and the black beret. Officers also wore this uniform.
Plate 27. Enlisted woman in the Army green cord uniform (1959-1980), of green and white striped polyester and cotton cord material. Worn initially with a matching green cord cap, it was later worn with the Army green hat and the black beret. Officers also wore this uniform.
Plate 28. WAC officer in the Army green service uniform (1960-1981), a wool serge skirt, jacket, garrison cap and hat. In 1966, in addition to the wool service uniform, enlisted women were issued a tropical worsted uniform, making this a year-round uniform.
Plate 28. WAC officer in the Army green service uniform (1960-1981), a wool serge skirt, jacket, garrison cap and hat. In 1966, in addition to the wool service uniform, enlisted women were issued a tropical worsted uniform, making this a year-round uniform.
Plate 29 Officer in the Army green raincoat (1966-1985), with removable havelock but no liner. Made of a water-repellant cotton-polyester poplin material, this raincoat could be worn open at the collar, with or without the gray-beige scarf. It was also worn by enlisted women.
Plate 29 Officer in the Army green raincoat (1966-1985), with removable havelock but no liner. Made of a water-repellant cotton-polyester poplin material, this raincoat could be worn open at the collar, with or without the gray-beige scarf. It was also worn by enlisted women.
Plate 30. WAC officer in the women's green overcoat of wool gabardine with removable liner (1967-1985). The overcoat collar could be worn open or closed, with or without the gray-beige scarf. The overcoat was also worn by enlisted women.
Plate 30. WAC officer in the women's green overcoat of wool gabardine with removable liner (1967-1985). The overcoat collar could be worn open or closed, with or without the gray-beige scarf. The overcoat was also worn by enlisted women.
Plate 31. Enlisted woman in the white hospital duty dress (1962-1975), Of cotton poplin, this uniform was worn with black oxfords or optional purchase white oxfords when authorized. The women's green cardigan sweater could be worn on duty. Women officers in the Army Medical Department wore this uniform with cap, white stockings, and oxfords. Civil service employees performing patient care could also wear the white uniform. ''
Plate 31. Enlisted woman in the white hospital duty dress (1962-1975), Of cotton poplin, this uniform was worn with black oxfords or optional purchase white oxfords when authorized. The women's green cardigan sweater could be worn on duty. Women officers in the Army Medical Department wore this uniform with cap, white stockings, and oxfords. Civil service employees performing patient care could also wear the white uniform. ''
Plate 32. Enlisted woman in the hospital duty uniform pantsuit authorized m 1975 as an optional purchase item-it later became an item of issue. Women officers in the Army Medical Department also wore this uniform on duty in medical care facilities.
Plate 32. Enlisted woman in the hospital duty uniform pantsuit authorized m 1975 as an optional purchase item-it later became an item of issue. Women officers in the Army Medical Department also wore this uniform on duty in medical care facilities.
Plate 33. Enlisted woman in the traditional food handler's uniform. This uniform had few modifications between 1944 and 1975, when a pantsuit was authorized for food handlers. Officers did not wear this uniform.
Plate 33. Enlisted woman in the traditional food handler's uniform. This uniform had few modifications between 1944 and 1975, when a pantsuit was authorized for food handlers. Officers did not wear this uniform.
Plate 34. Enlisted woman in the hot weather field uniform (1969-1981), olive-green cotton poplin shirt and slacks worn with a utility cap. Officers also wore this uniform.
Plate 34. Enlisted woman in the hot weather field uniform (1969-1981), olive-green cotton poplin shirt and slacks worn with a utility cap. Officers also wore this uniform.
Plate 35. Drill sergeant in the year-round training duty uniform (1971-1981), a light green cotton poplin shirt and darker green cotton shorts and skirt worn with a garrison cap or, as shown here, with the distinctive hat worn only by women trained to be drill sergeants. Upon certain occasions (instructing, etc.) women officers also wore the training duty uniform.
Plate 35. Drill sergeant in the year-round training duty uniform (1971-1981), a light green cotton poplin shirt and darker green cotton shorts and skirt worn with a garrison cap or, as shown here, with the distinctive hat worn only by women trained to be drill sergeants. Upon certain occasions (instructing, etc.) women officers also wore the training duty uniform.
Plate 36. Officer wearing the Army white uniform in the open collar style introduced in 1959. The straight-brimmed, matching fabric hat replaced the turned-down brim style of the taupe hat in 1962. Enlisted women also wore this uniform.
Plate 36. Officer wearing the Army white uniform in the open collar style introduced in 1959. The straight-brimmed, matching fabric hat replaced the turned-down brim style of the taupe hat in 1962. Enlisted women also wore this uniform.
Plate 37. Officer wearing the Army black evening dress uniform authorized in 1967. Enlisted women did not wear this uniform.
Plate 37. Officer wearing the Army black evening dress uniform authorized in 1967. Enlisted women did not wear this uniform.
Plate 38. Officer in the Army white evening dress uniform (authorized 1967) with the optional, street-length, black wool cape. Enlisted women did not wear this uniform.
Plate 38. Officer in the Army white evening dress uniform (authorized 1967) with the optional, street-length, black wool cape. Enlisted women did not wear this uniform.
Plate 39. Officer in the Army black mess uniform (authorized 1967). Enlisted women were authorized to wear all the mess uniforms in 1981.
Plate 39. Officer in the Army black mess uniform (authorized 1967). Enlisted women were authorized to wear all the mess uniforms in 1981.
Plate 40. Officer in the Army white mess uniform, authorized in 1967.
Plate 40. Officer in the Army white mess uniform, authorized in 1967.
Plate 41. Enlisted woman in the black raincoat, black beret, white scarf, and carrying the black umbrella authorized for women in 1972. Officers also wore these items.
Plate 41. Enlisted woman in the black raincoat, black beret, white scarf, and carrying the black umbrella authorized for women in 1972. Officers also wore these items.
Plate 42. Enlisted woman in the mint green summer uniform made of a polyester knit material (1975-1985). A long or short-sleeved jacket was worn with this uniform.
Plate 42. Enlisted woman in the mint green summer uniform made of a polyester knit material (1975-1985). A long or short-sleeved jacket was worn with this uniform.
Plate 43. Enlisted woman in the Army green pantsuit issued in 1976 to women who performed military police duties and in 1977 to all enlisted women. The jacket and slacks were of a polyester wool gabardine. A white shirt with black necktab or a rib-knit gray-green turtleneck tunic was worn with this uniform. Officers also wore this uniform.
Plate 43. Enlisted woman in the Army green pantsuit issued in 1976 to women who performed military police duties and in 1977 to all enlisted women. The jacket and slacks were of a polyester wool gabardine. A white shirt with black necktab or a rib-knit gray-green turtleneck tunic was worn with this uniform. Officers also wore this uniform.

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